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Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern

Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive knitting.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern

This Dreamy Donkey pattern brings the beloved melancholy character to life in adorable miniature form. With its characteristic droopy ears, sweet embroidered smile, and signature mane, this sitting donkey captures all the charm of the original character. The pattern includes innovative techniques like smile shaping, thread-jointed posable legs, and detailed facial features that give your donkey genuine personality and expression.

Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern offers flexibility with two yarn weight options, allowing you to create a petite companion or a larger huggable friend. Each version maintains the same lovable proportions and endearing details.

Why You'll Love This Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines technical skill-building with pure creative joy. The innovative smile-shaping technique in the muzzle creates such authentic character, and watching that sleepy expression come to life as you add the eyelids is genuinely magical. The thread-jointed legs mean your donkey can sit perfectly or pose in different positions, adding play value and display versatility. I especially appreciate how the pattern teaches advanced assembly techniques while remaining approachable, and the optional accessories like the basket with carrots add delightful finishing touches that make your creation truly special.

Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with color variations for this Dreamy Donkey pattern - imagine creating a pink and purple version for a more whimsical look, or even a realistic gray and brown donkey for farmyard charm. The pattern structure works beautifully with any color combination you choose.

For a simpler version, you can skip the thread joints and sew the legs directly to the body in a fixed sitting position. This makes the project more beginner-friendly while still capturing all the adorable character details. You could also create a standing version by adjusting the leg positioning during assembly.

I often customize the accessories to match different themes - try making a flower crown instead of the bow, or create different basket fillings like apples or flowers instead of carrots. The facial expression can be modified too by adjusting the eyelid placement for a more alert or even sleepier look.

Consider making a whole family of donkeys in graduated sizes using different yarn weights, or create seasonal versions with holiday-themed accessories. The belly could be embroidered with patterns or left plain for a cleaner look. You could even add a blanket or saddle for extra character storytelling.

For gifting, I sometimes attach a small book or create a custom carrying pouch that matches the donkey's colors. The pattern is wonderfully versatile and rewards creative personalization while maintaining its essential charm.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Forgetting to mark and use the back loops in Round 8 for smile shaping will result in losing the dimensional muzzle effect and proper smile placement later in assembly ✗ Shifting the stitch marker during body decreases can cause asymmetrical shaping, so always reposition the marker to maintain straight alignment down the back center ✗ Pulling thread joints too tightly or not capturing enough stitches when attaching legs will create unstable limbs that won't pose properly or support the sitting position ✗ Skipping the stuffing pause before finishing the head or not adding extra filling while sewing the head to the body creates a floppy neck connection that won't hold shape properly

Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own adorable Dreamy Donkey with this delightful amigurumi crochet pattern. This charming sitting donkey features expressive sleepy eyes, floppy ears with pink inner details, a sweet smile, and posable legs with thread joints. Perfect for Disney fans or anyone who loves cuddly handmade toys, this pattern includes detailed instructions for creating a donkey in two sizes using either semi-cotton or plush yarn.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Dreamy Donkey Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Cotton or semi-cotton yarn in blue, ivory/beige, black, lilac, pink, crimson, and white colors (~330m/100g)
  • 02
    Alize Cotton Gold yarn in colors 40 (blue), 166 (lilac), 01 (ivory), 33 (pink), 55 (white) for 13cm toy
  • 03
    Himalaya Dolphin Fine yarn in colors 26, 05, 08, 14 for 22cm toy (170m/100g)
  • 04
    YarnArt Jeans black yarn for embroidery and mane
  • 05
    Brown yarn for optional basket accessory
  • 06
    Orange and green yarn for optional carrot accessory

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2mm for main toy
  • 02
    Crochet hook 3mm for bow accessory
  • 03
    Safety eyes 5mm (or 8-10mm for larger donkey)
  • 04
    Yarn sewing needles
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Pins with large heads
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Fiber filling/stuffing
  • 09
    Synthetic or tooth thread for thread mounting (optional)
  • 10
    Button approximately 5mm for tail attachment
  • 11
    Thin black thread like Iris for embroidery
  • 12
    Long needles for thread mounting

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Eye-white (2 details):

Round 0 :

Chain 4

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 2 SC, 4 SC into the last chain from the hook, on the other side: SC, SS (8)

Info :

Join the oval with SS in the first St of a round, fix the thread, leave a long ending for sewing and withdraw it to the wrong side, insert the eyes so that they are offset to the centre

— Eyelid (2 details):

Round 1 :

6 SC in MR

Info :

Tighten the ring not to the end, so that the stitches are located along the semicircle, fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing

— Head:

Round 0 :

Chain 6

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 4 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from the hook; on the other side of the chain: 3 SC, INC (12)

Round 2 :

INC, 3 SC, 3 INC, 3 SC, 2 INC (18)

Round 3 :

SC, INC, 3 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2 SC, INC, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (30)

Round 5 :

3 SC, INC, 3 SC, (3 SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (3 SC, INC)*2 (36)

Round 6 :

4 SC, INC, 3 SC, (4 SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (4 SC, INC)*2 (42)

Round 7 :

42 SC

Round 8 :

(20 SC, 3 SC in one front loop)*2 (46)

Round 9-10 :

2 rounds 46 SC

Round 11 :

(21 SC, DEC)*2 (44)

Round 12 :

(20 SC, DEC)*2 (42)

Round 13 :

2 SC, DEC, 13 SC, DEC, SC, SC together with the back loop from Round 8, 20 SC, SC together with the back loop from Round 8 (40)

Round 14 :

2 SC, DEC, 11 SC, DEC, 23 SC (38)

Round 15 :

2 SC, DEC, 9 SC, DEC, 23 SC (36)

Round 16 :

2 SC, DEC, 7 SC, DEC, 23 SC (34)

Round 17 :

2 SC, DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 23 SC (32)

Round 18 :

5 SC, INC, 26 SC (33)

Round 19-23 :

5 rounds 33 SC

Info :

If you use plastic eyes with caps, insert them at this stage between Rounds 18 and 19 at the distance of 4-6 SC

Round 24 :

(9 SC, DEC)*3 (30)

Round 25 :

(3 SC, DEC)*6 (24)

Round 26 :

(2 SC, DEC)*6 (18)

Round 27 :

(SC, DEC)*6 (12)

Round 28 :

6 DEC (6)

Info :

Tighten the hole, fix the thread and hide the end inside the head

— Ear (2 details):

Round 0 :

Chain 3

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 2 SC

Round 2-3 :

2 rows 2 SC

Round 4 :

INC, SC (3)

Round 5-7 :

3 rows 3 SC

Round 8 :

INC, 2 SC (4)

Round 9-11 :

3 rows 4 SC

Round 12 :

INC, 3 SC (5)

Round 13 :

INC, 4 SC (6)

Round 14-17 :

4 rows 6 SC

Round 18 :

Skip a St, 5 SC (5)

Round 19 :

Skip a St, 4 SC (4)

Round 20 :

Skip a St, 3 SC (3)

Round 21 :

Skip a St, 2 SC (2)

Round 22 :

Skip a St, SC (1)

Info :

Fix the thread and hide ends between loops on the one side of the detail. Crochet 4 identical details: 2 details made of blue yarn and 2 details made of pink yarn

— Ear Assembly:

Infos :

Attach blue and pink parts of the ear to each other so that the hidden ends of the threads appears inside. Pink part is at the front, blue part is at the back. Crochet two details together with SC with blue thread. Begin with the upper side part of the ear, where was Round 0. Work 3 SC in the bottom and two upper back loops of the ear. Fix the thread with SS in the first St of crocheting around, leave a long ending to sew.

— Body:

Round 1 :

6 SC in MR

Round 2 :

6 INC (12)

Round 3 :

(SC, INC)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 SC, INC)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 SC, INC)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 SC, INC)*6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 SC, INC)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 SC, INC)*6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 SC, INC)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 SC, INC)*6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 SC, INC)*6 (66)

Round 12-21 :

10 rounds 66 SC

Round 22 :

15 SC, (4 SC, DEC)*6, 15 SC (60)

Round 23 :

60 SC

Round 24 :

15 SC, (3 SC, DEC)*6, 15 SC (54)

Round 25 :

54 SC

Round 26 :

15 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*6, 15 SC (48)

Round 27 :

48 SC

Round 28 :

15 SC, (SC, DEC)*6, 15 SC (42)

Round 29 :

42 SC

Round 30 :

15 SC, 6 DEC, 15 SC (36)

Round 31-34 :

4 rounds 36 SC

Round 35 :

12 SC, 6 DEC, 12 SC (30)

Round 36-38 :

3 rounds 30 SC

Round 39 :

9 SC, 6 DEC, 9 SC (24)

Infos :

Count 7 SC from the middle of the neck (on the back) on the left and on the right and place stitch markers. Continue working until the left stitch marker: 6 SC, SS. Then work a turning CH, turn, skip SS from the previous row and work 12 SC, SS until the next stitch marker. Fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing the head.

— Front Leg (2 details):

Round 0 :

Chain 3

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 2 SC

Round 2 :

INC, SC (3)

Round 3-5 :

3 rows 3 SC

Round 6 :

INC, 2 SC (4)

Round 7-20 :

14 rows 4 SC

Round 21 :

Skip a St, 3 SC (3)

Round 22 :

Skip a St, 2 SC (2)

Infos :

Work a CH, turn the detail to the side and crochet it around with SC; work 3 SC in two upper loops on the sides, and in two lower loops - 2 SC. Crochet 4 identical details: 2 details of lilac color, and then 2 blue ones. For lilac details only: fix the thread with SS in the first St, hide endings between loops on the one side of the detail.

— Leg Assembly:

Infos :

Don't cut the thread of the blue detail; attach the lilac detail at the back and start crocheting around two details together with SC. Stuff at the end of crocheting around. Fix the thread with SS in the very first St, hide it inside. Optional: embroider stitches along the leg with black thin thread.

— Back Leg (2 details):

Round 0 :

Chain 6

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 4 SC, INC (6)

Round 2 :

INC, SC, 2 DEC (5)

Round 3 :

Skip a St, 4 SC (4)

Round 4 :

2 SC, DEC (3)

Round 5 :

Skip a St, 2 SC (2)

Round 6 :

2 SC

Round 7 :

INC, SC (3)

Round 8 :

3 SC

Round 9 :

INC, 2 SC (4)

Round 10 :

3 SC, INC (5)

Round 11 :

INC, 4 SC (6)

Round 12 :

5 SC, INC (7)

Round 13 :

INC, 6 SC (8)

Round 14 :

8 SC

Round 15 :

INC, 7 SC (9)

Round 16-18 :

3 rows 9 SC

Round 19 :

Skip a St, 6 SC, DEC (7)

Round 20 :

Skip a St, 4 SC, DEC (5)

Round 21 :

Skip a St, 2 SC, DEC (3)

Infos :

Work a CH, turn the detail to the side and crochet it around with SC; work 3 SC in two upper loops on the sides, 3 SC in one loop on the toe, and don't work increases on the heel. Crochet 4 identical details: 2 details of lilac color, and then 2 blue ones. When crocheting the second detail of each color turn the detail and crochet it around in the other direction. For lilac details only: fix the thread with SS in the first St, hide endings between loops on the one side of the detail.

— Leg Assembly:

Infos :

Don't cut the thread of the blue detail; attach the lilac detail at the back and start crocheting around two details together with SC, work 3 SC in one loop on the toe. Stuff at the end of crocheting around. Fix the thread with SS in the very first St, hide it inside. Optional: embroider stitches along the leg with black thin thread.

— Belly:

Round 0 :

Chain 5

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 4 SC

Round 2 :

INC, 3 SC (5)

Round 3 :

INC, 4 SC (6)

Round 4 :

INC, 4 SC, INC (8)

Round 5 :

INC, 6 SC, INC (10)

Round 6 :

INC, 8 SC, INC (12)

Round 7 :

INC, 10 SC, INC (14)

Round 8 :

INC, 12 SC, INC (16)

Round 9 :

INC, 14 SC, INC (18)

Round 10 :

INC, 16 SC, INC (20)

Round 11 :

INC, 18 SC, INC (22)

Round 12-17 :

6 row 22 SC

Round 18 :

Skip a St, 19, DEC (20)

Round 19 :

Skip a St, 17, DEC (18)

Round 20 :

Skip a St, 15, DEC (16)

Round 21 :

Skip a St, 13, DEC (14)

Round 22 :

Skip a St, 11, DEC (12)

Round 23 :

Skip a St, 9, DEC (10)

Round 24 :

Skip a St, 7, DEC (8)

Round 25 :

Skip a St, 5, DEC (6)

Round 26 :

Skip a St, 3, DEC (4)

Infos :

Work a CH, crochet the detail around with SC, work 3 SC in two loops on the sides from above and from below. Work SS in the first loop of crocheting around and leave a long ending to sew.

— Tail:

Round 0 :

Chain 3

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 2 SC

Round 2-16 :

15 rows 2 SC

Infos :

Perhaps you will need a longer or shoter tail - try it on. Fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing. Attach thread on the edge of the tail and create black tassel.

— Bow:

Round 0 :

Chain 16 + 3 turning CH (19)

Round 1 :

(start in the 4th chain from the hook) 16 DC

Round 2 :

16 DC

Infos :

Fold in half and crochet two sides together with 4 SS. Fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing. Place the seam in the middle and wrap it with thread. Fix the thread with a knot and sew to the edge of the tail. Sew the button.

— Final Assembly:

Infos :

Sew the belly to the body. Optional: embroider stitches with black thin thread along the belly. Sew the head, fix the head with pins, use extra fiber filling to stuff the neck area while sewing. Make a thread mount of the legs: try on the paws, choose the appropriate position, so that the front legs support the body while sitting and it is able to stand on all four legs. Insert a long needle through the body in the place of mounting the 1st leg and withdraw it in the place of mounting the 2nd leg. Put the leg on the needle taking only the front part of the fabric (not through the whole leg), 2-3 SC and the fiber filling. Turn back through the same hole to the initial ending and put the 2nd leg on the needle. Stretch the legs very well and tie the thread endings, hide them in the body through the same (initial) hole, so a knot can hide inside. Sit the donkey down, do a thread mount as described above. Cut black thread on pieces and insert them fixing with knots: on the head - in spiral, on the back - two rows along. For a bigger donkey use two threads together in one knot. Brush the mane and straighten it with iron. Sew the tail and the button on the back.

— Basket (Optional):

Round 0 :

Chain 6

Round 1 :

(start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 4 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from the hook, on the other side: 3 SC, INC (12)

Round 2 :

INC, 3 SC, 3 INC, 3 SC, 2 INC (18)

Round 3 :

SC, INC, 3 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2 SC, INC, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (30)

Round 5 :

3 SC, INC, 3 SC, (3 SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (3 SC, INC)*2 (36)

Round 6 :

36 BPSC

Round 7 :

4 SC, INC, 3 SC, (4 SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (4 SC, INC)*2 (42)

Round 8 :

5 SC, INC, 3 SC, (5 SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (5 SC, INC)*2 (48)

Round 9 :

(SC, CH, skip a St)*24 (24)

Round 10 :

In reverse direction (crab stitch): a turning CH, (CH, SC in CH of previous round, skip a St)*24 (24)

Round 11 :

Turning CH, (SC in CH of previous round, CH, skip a St)*24 (24)

Round 12 :

In reverse direction (crab stitch): a turning CH, (CH, SC in CH of previous round, skip a St)*24 (24)

Info :

Fix the thread and hide the ending from the wrong side

— Carrot (Optional):

Round 1 :

3 SC in MR

Round 2 :

3 INC (6)

Round 3 :

(2 SC, INC)*2 (8)

Round 4-8 :

5 rounds 8 SC

Round 9 :

(2 SC, DEC)*2 (6)

Round 10 :

3 DEC (3)

Info :

Tighten the hole, fix the thread and hide the end inside

— Green Bundle (Optional):

Instructions :

Chain 9; (start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 7 SC, SS; Chain 8; (start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 7 SC, work SS in the last loop of the first chain; Chain 8; (start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 7 SC, work SS in the last loop of the first chain

Infos :

Sew the green bundle on the top of the carrot. Embroider black stitches on the carrot.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew eye-white pieces to the head, then attach eyelids so that the inner parts are higher than the outer ones
  • Embroider the eyelid line, eyebrows, smile, and nostrils with black thread, and create the center stitch line on the head
  • Sew the ears between rounds 24 and 26 of the head
  • Attach the belly to the body and optionally embroider stitches along the belly with black thin thread
  • Sew the head to the body, using pins to position it correctly and adding extra stuffing to the neck area while sewing
  • Create thread-jointed legs by inserting a long needle through the body, attaching legs by capturing only the front fabric (2-3 stitches), then returning through the same hole and securing tightly
  • Insert and fix black mane threads in spiral on the head and in two rows along the back, then brush and straighten with iron
  • Sew the tail with bow and button attached to the back of the body

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds, especially during color changes and when marking back loops for smile shaping
  • 💡Pay attention to stitch marker placement during body decreases to maintain symmetrical shaping with straight alignment down the back
  • 💡Mark the back loops in Round 8 of the head as these will be used later in Round 13 for smile tightening
  • 💡Stuff firmly but not too tightly for the best shape, and add extra filling to the neck area when attaching the head
  • 💡When creating thread-jointed legs, use both semi-cotton and synthetic thread together for stronger mounting
  • 💡For larger donkeys using plush yarn, use two threads together in one knot when creating the mane
  • 💡Pin all parts in place before sewing to ensure correct positioning and proportions

This adorable Dreamy Donkey pattern captures the beloved melancholy character with authentic personality and charm. The innovative smile-shaping technique and expressive sleepy eyes bring genuine character to life, while the thread-jointed legs allow your donkey to sit perfectly or pose in different positions. With detailed instructions for two size options and optional accessories like a basket with carrots, this pattern combines technical skill-building with pure creative joy. Your finished donkey will be a treasured companion that brings smiles for years to come!

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use different yarn types for this pattern?

Yes! The pattern works with both semi-cotton yarn (like Alize Cotton Gold or YarnArt Jeans) for a 13cm toy, or plush yarn (like Himalaya Dolphin Fine) for a 22cm toy. Just adjust your hook size accordingly and remember that different yarn weights will create different sized toys.

How do I create the smile shaping on the muzzle?

In Round 8 of the head, work 3 SC in one front loop to create extensions for the smile, and mark the back loops with stitch markers. Later in Round 13, you'll work stitches together with these marked back loops to create the smile tightening effect that gives the muzzle its dimensional shape.

What if my thread-jointed legs won't stay in position?

Make sure you're capturing only the front part of the leg fabric (2-3 stitches) with some filling, not piercing through the entire leg. Use both semi-cotton and synthetic thread together for strength, stretch the legs very well before tying, and ensure you hide the knot through the exact same hole you started with.

Do I need to make the ears in two colors?

While the pattern calls for pink inner ears and blue outer ears to match the character design, you can simplify by making all ear pieces in one color if preferred. The two-tone design adds authentic character detail but isn't structurally necessary.

Can I skip the mane or make it differently?

Absolutely! You can adjust the mane length, use fewer or more strands, or even create a sewn-on mane instead of individually knotted pieces. The brushing and ironing step is optional but helps create the characteristic straight, spiky look of the character.